All-Grain Brewing, Part II: How to Lauter
In part I, I talked about mashing, which is the process of turning starches in malted grain into sugars for the eventual purpose of fermentation, to make that great nectar called beer. In that post, I went into detail about a single infusion mash. If you recall, that process ended with a mixture of water and grist that is about the consistency of oatmeal, sitting in a K-mart brand water cooler acting as a mash tun. The starches have all been converted and it is time for the next step.
Obviously, if one throws yeast into that oatmeal like mixture, the result will be an icky mess. Therefore, there needs to be a way to filter the sugary liquid from the grain. That sugary liquid, when extracted, is called sweet wort.
As it turns out, using barley has a great advantage. The hard husks of the barley can actually act as its own filter to let the liquid out and leave the spent grains behind. All one needs to do is trap the husks and let the sweet wort run out of the grain. This process is called lautering.
Taking a closer look at equipment, one mashes grain in a mash tun. However, with the addition of one piece of equipment, that mash tun can also act as a lauter tun. Well actually, there are two variations of that equipment: a false bottom, and a manifold. Both are very similar.
A false bottom sits in the bottom of the mash/lauter tun, one or two inches above the actual bottom. It has holes drilled in it that are barely small enough to trap the grain husks. Below the false bottom, a valve pokes out of the mash/lauter tun where one can control the flow of the liquid.
A manifold is very similar. It is a series of soldered together copper pipes that runs along the bottom of the mash/lauter tun. Along the entire length, slots are cut into it, again, just small enough not to let the grain husks through. The manifold, like the false bottom, is connected to a valve that comes out of the mash/lauter tun. Typically, a manifold is used when the mash tun is oddly shaped, like using a rectangular picnic cooler, but that does not have to be the case.
Looking at my setup, at the bottom of that K-mart water cooler that I use, I happen to use a manifold. The reason is not because it is better, or my cooler has an odd shape, but rather, it is because I had a bunch of copper tubing sitting around at the time I built the thing and did not have a lot of money. Since then, it was worked so well that I have never bothered to replace it.
These are the steps I take when lautering:
1. Vorlaufing: This is the process of recirculating. It sets the grain bed so that it can act like a filter and clears all the grain material out from under the false bottom or inside manifold.
To do this, I just barely open the valve and slowly drain the liquid out of the mash/lauter tun, though the manifold, valve, and tubing, into a pitcher. This is always done at a slow trickle. The amount that needs to be drained may vary; sometimes, it is a couple of pints or sometimes it goes up to 3/4 of a gallon. The goal is to run it until it runs clear, so I can see my fingers through the vinyl tube.
As I do this, the grain will flatten out into a bed, as it gets sucked down a bit, and there will be a layer of liquid on top of it. It can be hard to see at first because the liquid is cloudy.
If the liquid drains too fast, the grain will get sucked down and compacted into a solid mass and the flow will stop. The key is to just barely drain it fast enough.
Once the liquid in the tube runs clear, I move the trickling end of the tube from the pitcher to the boil kettle and let it continue to drain. The liquid I drained into the pitcher then carefully gets poured or siphoned back into the top of mash/lauter tun.
There are two things I watch out for when pouring the liquid back. First, I introduce as little oxygen as possible (which is why siphoning is better). Second, I try not to disturb the grain bed as this can create channels and lower my extract efficiency.
2. Sparging: Next come the sparge, where I actually rinse the sugars from the grain. There are several techniques people use: no sparge, batch sparge, and fly sparging. I happen to do fly sparging.
When fly sparging, I add boiling sparge liquor to my hot liquor tank, the plastic bucket sitting on the counter above my mash/lauter tun. This drains through a tube leading from the bottom of the hot liquor tank to the top of the mash/lauter tun. My goal is to slowly add liquor to the top of the mash/lauter tun at the same speed as the sweet wort is drained off the bottom. I use a Phil's sparge arm to sprinkle the liquor into the mash tun so as not to disturb the grain bed. Again, I do this a very slow speed. It is easy to compact the grain bed and end up with a stuck sparge.
![]() | ![]() |
There area few things I watch out for here as well. First, I don't let the liquid drop below the top of the grain bed. In fact, the whole time I sparge I'm involved in a constant balancing act of adjusting the flow into and out of the mash/lauter tun. Sometimes, I turn up the hot liquor tank and turn down the mash run-off. Then, after a while, I set it back the other way. These adjustments are an attempt to keep about 2 inches of liquid above the grain bed at all times.
The second thing I watch out for is temperature. The rule is to never let it get above 168 degrees F, reason being that harsh tannins can get extracted from the grain husks, making for an unpleasant astringency in the final product. However, it is best to keep the liquor at least the same temp as the mash or warmer, so that an inversion layer in the grain bed helps push the sugars out.
Since my hot liquor tank is not heated, even though I add boiling water to the tank, the temperature drops very quickly, usually hovering between 185 and 170. In fact, this is the Achilles heal of my system. I have a hard time controlling the temperature of the liquor going into the mash/lauter tun. I am happy to say, though, that by the time it flows through the sparge arm and into the mash/lauter tun, it has cooled off to well below 168 degrees F. In actuality, the issue I have is that often the sparge liquor is too cool. Fortunately, the worst thing that that can do is affect my extract efficiency.
3. Stopping The Sparge: Knowing when to stop the sparge can be tricky. If everything has been done right, it should last for about an hour. Anything shorter than that means that I'm likely not getting all the sugars I can out of the grain.
It would seem logical that the sparge should end when I've collected enough sweet wort to conduct the boil. However, that is not necessarily the case. As the sparge continues the pH will drop. If it drops below a certain point, tannins will be extracted from the grain husks, which, like mentioned above, can make the beer astringent, considered a major flaw.
Fortunately, pH and run-off specific gravity (SG) have a direct relationship, so I can use that as a guide. If the run-off SG drops to 1.010, I stop the sparge. If it never drops that low and I reach the amount I planned to collect, usually between 6.5 and 7 gallons, then I stop. I use these two criteria to indicate that I've collected enough.
The way that works is that starting around 4.5 or 5 gallons collected, I take samples of the run-off, cool it as quickly as I can in an ice bath, and check the SG. I keep doing that until I stop. If I stop before my 6.5 to 7 gallons are collected, I simply add water to make up the difference.
![]() | ![]() |
The way that I measure how much I've collected is that I have a plastic spoon with notches carved out of it that I use as a dipstick. It is calibrated to work with my enamel canning pot that I use as a boil kettle.

Once the sparge is complete, I pick the boil kettle off the floor and place it on the stove. It is then time to start the boil.
Next time, The Boil.























